BY TAITE JOHNSON.Joy played host to a group of eleven walkers and Bruno the dog at the beautiful village of Tintern in Monmouthshire meeting in the shadow of the majestic and breathtaking ruins of Tintern Abbey. Founded in 1131 by Walter de la Clare, Lord of Chepstow this Cistercian monastery prospered until the Act of Dissolution brought monastic life in Britain to a halt, when Henry VIII broke with Rome and became the head of the new Church of England.
By Joy Strangward.
Setting off from the Welsh side of the beautiful River Wye where the remains of the old water gate is still in situ beside the Anchor Inn, they passed over the Angiddy River overlooking the Abbey Mill.
Crossing the railway bridge built in 1886 by the Duke of Beaufort as a link with the wireworks and into Gloucestershire, they followed the disused railway track as it gently climbs before turning onto a forestry track for the long climb up to path.
Offa was the King of Mercia from AD 747-796 and was responsible for building an earthwork and ditch which is 149 miles long from Prestatyn to Sedbury named Offa’s Dyke, which formed a boundary between his kingdom and Wales. In order to protect the most vulnerable parts of the dyke the footpath at this point was re-directed into Worgan’s Wood and after pausing for morning break on the bluebell woodland floor and crossing a footbridge, the route led them along a woodland path to the glorious viewpoint at the Devil’s Pulpit. Allegedly the Devil placed a limestone rock here so he could attempt to lure away the monks that were toiling in the fields below and this is the best view of the Abbey remains.
The undulating path wound its way through woodland bedecked with wild garlic, bluebells and wood anemones and descending via a footbridge at Caswell Wood it was time for lunch in warm sunshine overlooking the panorama of St Briavels Common and down to Brockweir in the valley below.
Refreshed they followed a grassy pathway downhill to join a rough track leading to the village of Brockweir nestled beside the River Wye and its name dates from the 7th century, when it was previously known as Pwll Brochuail or the pool of Brochuail, a prince of Gwent. Its ancient weir was used by the monks of Tintern as a salmon fishery and Brockweir was the furthest point upstream that it was possible for seagoing vessels to reach, so it became a busy port. There was also a thriving ship-building, fitting-out and repair industry sited there and the white-painted Moravian Church was built in 1833 to try and quell the bad behaviour, especially on the Sabbath, of those who frequented its 16 cider houses!
Past the idyllic Monks Hall and the Malthouse, the oldest building in the village and across the cast iron road bridge built in 1906 back into Wales, for the short walk to Tintern Old Station. This was part of the Wye Valley Railway that ran from Chepstow to Monmouth with a connection to the wireworks, but by the time the railway was opened the industrial purposes it was built for were already declining. However, a new industry in the shape of tourism came along and during the 1900’s crowds of people would travel on a special train to visit Tintern Abbey at night on the harvest moon. The station closed in 1959 despite protests but was opened to the public again in 1975 complete with its old platform, signal box and railway carriages along with the Circle of Legends as a tourist and Heritage Centre.
Steps led them back down to the riverbank and onward past fields to St Michaels’ Church which sadly was locked. By the 7th century a Christian community was formed at what is now called Tintern and this church dates from 765AD. It was rebuilt in the middle ages and situated beside the border between Wales and England churches were often the scene of conflict, so many were dedicated to St Michael who was a favourite saint of soldiers. Then pounding pavements through Tintern and through its playing field led to the Anchor Inn for some welcome refreshment prior to the journey home.
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Joy Strangward
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