Ramblers 13 mile walk of the Usk Valley
By Joy Strangward
William from Penarth and District Ramblers recently headed up to Caerleon to lead a 13 mile walk in the beautiful lower Usk Valley.
Starting from Isca, which was the fortress of the Second Augustan Legion, their arch enemies the Silures who were the native tribe of South East Wales were based at Venta Silurum in Caerwent. Isca was begun in A.D. 75 and the Romans relied on the River Usk so that sea going ships could bring them supplies or reinforcements if urgently needed. Originally built using turf, clay and wood, until re-built in stone by A.D.100 inside the fortress were long narrow barrack blocks, housing soldiers with separate units for officers along with a hospital and workshops, baths, tailors, kitchens and drill halls whilst the huge Amphitheatre stood outside the fortress walls.
On a mild autumn morning they set off under light cloud past the remains of the barracks and the Amphitheatre built to house a crowd of 5,000 spectators watching gladiators and crossing the early 19th century town bridge over the River Usk and joining part of the long distance Usk Valley Walk, which meanders from Caerleon to Brecon the old Roman Road led them up Chepstow Hill.
Heading through woodland and walking on the fringes of the Celtic Manor Resort which contains three championship golf courses and which hosted the 2010 Ryder Cup, they arrived at the hamlet of Cat’s Ash. Climbing over a stile into a steeply banked field containing some beautiful friendly donkeys they entered atmospheric beech woodland covering the steep Wentworth escarpment of Kemys Craig with its occasional glimpses of the sparkling River Usk below them.
The southwestern end of the ridgeway contains a small Roman fort which had commanding views not only of the Usk Estuary but up towards Burrium, a Roman fort located below Usk. The ridgeway is also the site of Kemeys Folly, a Grade II listed building originally built as a hunting lodge by George Kemeys, a local landowner and has now been converted into a private residence.
Exiting from the Bertholau Graig wood, it was time for morning refreshment on a grassy bank in warm sunshine whilst enjoying a couple of buzzards effortlessly circling overhead. A steep descent by field brought them past Bertholey House built on the site of an earlier property owned by Edmund Kemeys in 1616 and reaching the valley bottom they made their way below the A449 near White Hall Farm.
Tramping across a couple of harvested grain fields led them to the lovely old 18th century stone bridge leading them across the River Usk at Newbridge on Usk, before heading along seldom walked footpaths through fields passing Bwllfa Cottages.
A lush green meadow above the River Usk beckoned to them signalling that it was time for lunch and time almost stood still for a moment as they were lost listening to bird song and relishing the surrounding views. Refreshed it was time to move on and handy secateurs came out of the rucksack in order to clear a couple of overgrown stiles near Plas Llecha.
Locating a narrow lane near Garn-fawr, a short walk along it led them past some old well preserved lime kilns and Pant-gwyn Farm before another overgrown footpath brought them down to the riverside at Glen Usk. Passing a small herd of magnificent Highland cattle they tramped on past Castle Mill and across a footbridge to Woodbank before making their way up to Llanhennock.
Arriving at the red sandstone-built 12th century Church of St John the Baptist with its stunning views across the Usk Valley meant a short pause to enjoy the glorious autumnal sunshine, before an old track brought them past Garth, Gatlas and Penrhos Farm on the descent to Pont Sadwrn and a return to their start point at Caerleon.
Follow the group’s exploits here or via Facebook.
